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Nestled amidst the verdant peaks of the Sabaragamuwa Province in Sri Lanka, Ratnapura is a name that resonates with mystery, history, and the allure of nature's treasures. Known as the "City of Gems," this bustling town is the epicentre of Sri Lanka's gem trading, famed for its rich deposits of precious stones. Among these, sapphires and the enigmatic chrysoberyl cat's eye stand out for their unique beauty and high value. Ratnapura's legacy as a gem trading hub is as colourful and multifaceted as the stones it unearths. As a previous resident of Sri Lanka, working as a gem dealer in the capital Colombo, I used to make bi-monthly trips to Ratnapura and accordingly have a wealth of personal experience to share. Let us delve together into the essence and very heart of this astonishing location.
The history of Ratnapura is as old as the very legends that surround the gems it harbours. It's believed that gem trading in Ratnapura dates back over two thousand years, with ancient traders and explorers drawn to its treasures. Marco Polo wrote of the island’s gems, and for centuries, traders from across Asia and Europe were lured by tales of its abundant riches. Today is little different, and scores of people all around the world continue to make their way to this astonishing destination, either in search of fame and fortune, or otherwise simply to absorb the extraordinary atmosphere in what remains a stunning and totally unique vacation destination.
Ratnapura lies in a valley, rich in alluvial soil, which is replenished by the seasonal monsoons. This fertile ground is the perfect cradle for gemstones, with rivers washing over rocks and depositing gems in their wake. The region's geological diversity contributes to the variety of gemstones found, including rubies, garnets, moonstones, aquamarines, and topazes. However, it's the sapphires and chrysoberyl cat's eyes that truly set Ratnapura apart.
The sapphires from Ratnapura are world-renowned, celebrated for their vibrant colours and clarity. These gems range from deep blues to "padparadscha," a rare pink-orange sapphire found historically only in Sri Lanka, but now in Madagascar as well. The allure of Ratnapura’s sapphires lies not just in their beauty but in their history and the painstaking effort taken to extract them from the earth. Sri Lanka sapphires tend to be cleaner than their Burmese counterparts and are half the price, even sometimes less.
Equally captivating is the chrysoberyl cat's eye, a gem that boasts an ethereal beauty with its unique optical phenomenon known as chatoyancy. This effect, resembling the slit eye of a cat, is caused by light reflecting off fine, parallel inclusions within the stone. The finest specimens, displaying a sharp and clearly visible eye, are highly sought after and command impressive prices on the global market. In particular, the specimens of the prized ‘milk-and-honey’ colour are especially in demand.
Trading in Ratnapura is steeped in tradition, with practices that have been passed down through generations. The town's gem markets are a hive of activity, where buyers and sellers haggle over the price of rough and cut stones. The process is intricate, involving the careful examination of gems for their quality, colour, clarity, and cut. Trust plays a crucial role in these transactions, with deals often sealed with a handshake and the exchange of cash. As always, ‘caveat emptor’ should be kept in mind, but in my experience, there are fewer outright cheats operating in the gem market here as opposed to other locations in Asia. That is not to say, however, that the seller will not attempt to maximize his profit and sell you a stone at a price significantly about its true value! If something seems too cheap, there is probably a reason for that! Most sellers will speak at least a basic level of English. The town is extremely safe to walk around, though of course caution must be always exercised.
Gem mining in Ratnapura is predominantly small-scale and labour-intensive, employing traditional methods that have changed little over the centuries. Miners dig pits or tunnels by hand, using simple tools to excavate the earth in search of gem-bearing gravel, known locally as "illam." This gravel is then washed and sieved to reveal the gems hidden within. The work is challenging and requires patience and expertise, but the potential rewards are considerable. It is possible to arrange side trips from the centre of the town to see the miners at work.
The gem trade in Ratnapura faces challenges, including environmental concerns and the need for sustainable practices. Over-mining and land degradation pose significant threats, prompting calls for more responsible mining methods that preserve the environment while ensuring the livelihoods of local communities. Efforts are being made to strike a balance between economic development and environmental stewardship. Ultimately, and quite possibly in the next 10-20 years, the source of these gems will run out, which is why fine precious and semi-precious stones are an excellent long-term investment if sourced at the right price.
Today, Ratnapura is more than just a trading hub; it's a destination for tourists and gem enthusiasts from around the world. Visitors can explore gem mines, visit markets, and marvel at the skill of local gem cutters and jewellers. Museums and guided tours offer insights into the science and art of gemmology, making Ratnapura a fascinating blend of natural beauty, history, and culture. As a country, Sri Lanka is in any case a wonderful holiday choice, and a side trip to experience the gem trade can be one of the highlights of an already stunning vacation.
For those looking to experience the magic of Ratnapura first-hand, a visit to the town's gem markets is a must. Here, one can witness the vibrant trade that has sustained the region for centuries. Educational tours of gem mines offer a glimpse into the arduous process of gem extraction, while jewellery shops showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of local artisans. Take your time. Have no fixed agenda. Sample the stunning local cuisine and enjoy! Need a personalised experience and an expert gem dealer to assist you? I can be your guide :)
Ratnapura stands as a testament to Sri Lanka's rich gemmological heritage, a town where the earth's hidden treasures continue to captivate and enchant. Its sapphires and chrysoberyl cat's eyes are not merely stones but symbols of the enduring allure of nature's artistry. For gem enthusiasts, historians, and travellers alike, Ratnapura offers a unique window into the world of gems, where beauty, tradition, and sustainability intersect.
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