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A stunning, unforgettable city surrounded by a multitude of pagoda-covered mountains, Mogok is arguably the oldest, and most famous, gem tract in the world. It is certainly the most alluring, and the most romantic.

Situated in a verdant valley, the area enjoys a relatively temperate climate for most of the year. Although summers are hot, they are short. And winters, while chilly, are again brief. The rest of the year is dry and mostly warm, conducive to the back-breaking work carried out by the majority of the town’s inhabitants. The monsoon season lasts for almost half the year, however, with June to October registering the highest levels of precipitation. If you have not yet experienced a Myanmar monsoon, you are in for a shock!

The artificial lake in the centre of town is arguably its dominant feature. Locals gather around the lake on cool evenings, reviewing the business of the day and trading anecdotes about, increasingly, the volatile political situation in the country.

![Mogok2](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1663927494/Blog_1_2_df46eb475d.png)

Architecturally a mix of unprepossessing modern shophouses, low-rise apartment blocks and rather nondescript office buildings interspaced with areas of wooden dwellings and the occasional neo-classical mansions, the town would seem to be at first glance indistinguishable from its countless cousins throughout the country. But stroll around the pleasant, tree-lined and shady streets for more than a minute, and you will see that the economy of Mogok is based on one product, and one product alone: gems.

Gemstones permeate every single facet of virtually everyone’s lives in this town. The livelihood of every single person in Mogok is directly linked to the trading of gems. Even religion in the town is inextricably intertwined with the gem trade – several pagodas are encrusted with not only the traditional gold, but thousands of tiny gemstones as well. Gems, particularly rubies, gold and silver are routinely used as offerings, and the Chantargyi Pagoda even contains its own mini gemstone museum.

![Mogok3](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1663927484/Blog_1_3_2517ee9cb9.jpg)

Captivating though these pagodas can be, and I would absolutely recommend a visit to as many of them as time allows, it is ultimately the gem markets of Mogok which will undoubtedly be of most interest to you, dear readers.  These can be broadly categorized as follows:

**Morning Markets**

Historically, virtually everyone could set themselves up by the side of the road with a rickety table and then proceed to try and sell their gems. With the influence of the military, permits are increasingly required, however. Nevertheless, a casual and first-time visitor to the city will be amazed at the sheer amount of people sat by the roadside, either by a table or sitting on the ground, openly selling their wares. Other options for the buyer do however exist.

First, there is a new morning market for rough stones, which I understand is gaining quickly in trade and popularity.

![Mogok4](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1663927484/Blog_1_4_8d128bda70.jpg)

The quality of stones sold on the roadside is inevitably rather low. Ruby, spinel, peridot and semi-precious gems such as topaz, moonstone and citrine can be seen in huge numbers, but the stones, whilst sometimes almost unbelievably cheap, will either be opaque, tiny, or heavily included. Both rough and cut stones are available, as are some specimens such as spinel in matrix. All dealing at this level is done in the local currency, the Kyat.

One of the main morning markets is Yoke Shin Yone, sometimes known as the Cinema market. Under an array of tarpaulins to shield both buyers and sellers from the almost blinding sun, the quality here is definitely better, but visitors will be amazed at the sheer difference in quality between some of the offerings. Persistence as always is the key, as is the ability to earn the respect of the seller by showing knowledge and professionalism. Prices are often inflated, however, and sometimes to barely credible levels.

**Afternoon Markets**

Possibly the most atmospheric of all the markets, the afternoon Panchan Market is little more than a wide empty plot of land interspersed with blue umbrellas, under which dealers gather round, sitting on colourful plastic chairs of all hues, to inspect, buy and sell their gemstones. Visitors to Chantaburi will recognize the style of business here: prospective buyers sit at the tables under the umbrellas, while sellers form an orderly, or sometimes not-so-orderly, queue to offer their wares.

We have found that the overall quality of gems at this market is generally superior to all other markets, and it tends to attract a slightly more upscale level of local dealer. The whole range of Mogok stones, both in rough and faceted form, can be found here, with a preponderance of ruby and spinel. Once again, a first-time visitor, especially one unaccompanied by a knowledgeable local, may very well be shocked by some of the prices quoted. Indeed, countless visitors have correctly commented that the prices here seem significantly higher than the plusher gem and jewellery emporiums in Yangon, and even the highest end of the plethora of shopping malls in Bangkok.

![Mogok5](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1663927495/Blog_1_5_166af0366e.png)

**Caveat Emptor!**

In Mogok, as in any unfamiliar trading market thousands of miles from home, the buyer must be extremely cautious. Although outright fakes (synthetics and simulated gems) are relatively rare, they do exist, and it is an unfortunate reality that often these are likely to appear for sale when a new, foreign, buyer appears on the scene. There is also a plethora of (mostly obvious to spot) ‘gem certificates’ which have clearly been printed up, rather amateurishly, at someone’s home. Fortunately, however, there now are two or three reputable gemmologists in town who, for a most reasonable fee, can check the authenticity of any gem. These will, in most cases, be synthetic rubies of varying sizes.

And what about the serious, professional buyer with possibly thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars to spend during his or her trip to Mogok? What are their options both in sourcing high quality stones and ensuring they are authentic?  The answer is both simple and complicated.  Mogok, like many other mining or trading centres, is ultimately dominated by a handful of five or six major dealers. In most cases, these companies have government connections and even shareholders, and at least one is directly controlled by the military. This cabal will almost always get hold of the best quality stones and control their price and sales. The contrast between this handful of dealers, who are millionaires countless times over, and the poverty of the miners, is stark and unnerving. Access to these dealers, however, can only be arranged by someone with the very best of local connections.

I hope that this brief blog entry has given you a taste of this most captivating of gem towns. As I type, a combination of Covid-19 and political restrictions mean that permissions to visit are not being given. We can only hope that this ban will soon be lifted to the benefit of both locals and visitors alike. 

Keen-eyed readers might notice a glaring omission from this blog – the mines of Mogok. But please be assured, dear readers, that this is entirely deliberate, as our next blog will focus on precisely this topic. Happy Reading!

Magical Mogok - An Unforgettable Experience

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## Ratnapura: The Gemstone Heart of Sri Lanka

Nestled amidst the verdant peaks of the Sabaragamuwa Province in Sri Lanka, Ratnapura is a name that resonates with mystery, history, and the allure of nature's treasures. Known as the "City of Gems," this bustling town is the epicentre of Sri Lanka's gem trading, famed for its rich deposits of precious stones. Among these, sapphires and the enigmatic chrysoberyl cat's eye stand out for their unique beauty and high value. Ratnapura's legacy as a gem trading hub is as colourful and multifaceted as the stones it unearths. As a previous resident of Sri Lanka, working as a gem dealer in the capital Colombo, I used to make bi-monthly trips to Ratnapura and accordingly have a wealth of personal experience to share. Let us delve together into the essence and very heart of this astonishing location.

![ratnapura on sri lanka map.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141169/ratnapura_on_sri_lanka_map_c0c5889f66.png)


##### **A Glimpse into History**
The history of Ratnapura is as old as the very legends that surround the gems it harbours. It's believed that gem trading in Ratnapura dates back over two thousand years, with ancient traders and explorers drawn to its treasures. Marco Polo wrote of the island’s gems, and for centuries, traders from across Asia and Europe were lured by tales of its abundant riches. Today is little different, and scores of people all around the world continue to make their way to this astonishing destination, either in search of fame and fortune, or otherwise simply to absorb the extraordinary atmosphere in what remains a stunning and totally unique vacation destination.

![Picture 1.jpg](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713159091/Picture_1_5dcb914afb.jpg)

##### **The Geological Marvel**
Ratnapura lies in a valley, rich in alluvial soil, which is replenished by the seasonal monsoons. This fertile ground is the perfect cradle for gemstones, with rivers washing over rocks and depositing gems in their wake. The region's geological diversity contributes to the variety of gemstones found, including rubies, garnets, moonstones, aquamarines, and topazes. However, it's the sapphires and chrysoberyl cat's eyes that truly set Ratnapura apart.

##### **Sapphires: The Crown Jewels of Ratnapura**
The sapphires from Ratnapura are world-renowned, celebrated for their vibrant colours and clarity. These gems range from deep blues to "padparadscha," a rare pink-orange sapphire found historically only in Sri Lanka, but now in Madagascar as well. The allure of Ratnapura’s sapphires lies not just in their beauty but in their history and the painstaking effort taken to extract them from the earth. Sri Lanka sapphires tend to be cleaner than their Burmese counterparts and are half the price, even sometimes less.

![sapphire for blog.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141172/sapphire_for_blog_1eb816b4e5.png)

##### **Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye: A Glimpse of Magic**
Equally captivating is the chrysoberyl cat's eye, a gem that boasts an ethereal beauty with its unique optical phenomenon known as chatoyancy. This effect, resembling the slit eye of a cat, is caused by light reflecting off fine, parallel inclusions within the stone. The finest specimens, displaying a sharp and clearly visible eye, are highly sought after and command impressive prices on the global market. In particular, the specimens of the prized ‘milk-and-honey’ colour are especially in demand.
![Picture 1.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713159254/Picture_1_0e57842801.png)
                                    

##### **The Art of Gem Trading in Ratnapura**
Trading in Ratnapura is steeped in tradition, with practices that have been passed down through generations. The town's gem markets are a hive of activity, where buyers and sellers haggle over the price of rough and cut stones. The process is intricate, involving the careful examination of gems for their quality, colour, clarity, and cut. Trust plays a crucial role in these transactions, with deals often sealed with a handshake and the exchange of cash. As always, ‘caveat emptor’ should be kept in mind, but in my experience, there are fewer outright cheats operating in the gem market here as opposed to other locations in Asia. That is not to say, however, that the seller will not attempt to maximize his profit and sell you a stone at a price significantly about its true value! If something seems too cheap, there is probably a reason for that! Most sellers will speak at least a basic level of English. The town is extremely safe to walk around, though of course caution must be always exercised.
 
![rat gem market.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141171/rat_gem_market_133edf00b8.png)

##### **Traditional Mining Techniques**
Gem mining in Ratnapura is predominantly small-scale and labour-intensive, employing traditional methods that have changed little over the centuries. Miners dig pits or tunnels by hand, using simple tools to excavate the earth in search of gem-bearing gravel, known locally as "illam." This gravel is then washed and sieved to reveal the gems hidden within. The work is challenging and requires patience and expertise, but the potential rewards are considerable. It is possible to arrange side trips from the centre of the town to see the miners at work.

![gem mining sri lanka.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141170/gem_mining_sri_lanka_bef7d9dfc3.png)
                                                    
##### **Challenges and Sustainability**
The gem trade in Ratnapura faces challenges, including environmental concerns and the need for sustainable practices. Over-mining and land degradation pose significant threats, prompting calls for more responsible mining methods that preserve the environment while ensuring the livelihoods of local communities. Efforts are being made to strike a balance between economic development and environmental stewardship. Ultimately, and quite possibly in the next 10-20 years, the source of these gems *will* run out, which is why fine precious and semi-precious stones are an excellent long-term investment if sourced at the right price.

##### **Ratnapura Today: A Gem of a Destination**
Today, Ratnapura is more than just a trading hub; it's a destination for tourists and gem enthusiasts from around the world. Visitors can explore gem mines, visit markets, and marvel at the skill of local gem cutters and jewellers. Museums and guided tours offer insights into the science and art of gemmology, making Ratnapura a fascinating blend of natural beauty, history, and culture. As a country, Sri Lanka is in any case a wonderful holiday choice, and a side trip to experience the gem trade can be one of the highlights of an already stunning vacation.

![ratnapura town towe.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141171/ratnapura_town_towe_4925d968b3.png)

##### **How to Experience Ratnapura**
For those looking to experience the magic of Ratnapura first-hand, a visit to the town's gem markets is a must. Here, one can witness the vibrant trade that has sustained the region for centuries. Educational tours of gem mines offer a glimpse into the arduous process of gem extraction, while jewellery shops showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of local artisans. Take your time. Have no fixed agenda. Sample the stunning local cuisine and enjoy! Need a personalised experience and an expert gem dealer to assist you? I can be your guide :)

![sri lankan food.png](https://res.cloudinary.com/dbyyrpfnv/image/upload/v1713141169/sri_lankan_food_b6c2ed8b87.png)
                                        
##### **Conclusion**
Ratnapura stands as a testament to Sri Lanka's rich gemmological heritage, a town where the earth's hidden treasures continue to captivate and enchant. Its sapphires and chrysoberyl cat's eyes are not merely stones but symbols of the enduring allure of nature's artistry. For gem enthusiasts, historians, and travellers alike, Ratnapura offers a unique window into the world of gems, where beauty, tradition, and sustainability intersect.

www.burmarubysapphire.com \
parvis@ceylonjewels.com \
IG @burmarubysapphire




Ravishing Ratnapura - City Of Gems!

Burma Ruby Sapphire